It crept down to as low as 83 yen per $1, making life miserable for Japanese companies doing business in the U.S. In fact I have the impression that many people buy an mx5 and use it as a sports car in OEM condition, it's a mistake and sooner or later it creates surprises (with the brakes I had one).The yen is at the highest point against the dollar in many years. The dot3 brake fluid doesn't really have its place either in case of intensive use (nor the pads). We can talk about the OEM oil in the LS differential, very fluid too, with which we can hear the gearwheels growling as much as the inner tire during maneuvers, for the moment it's finished with the Motul, it's less on/off, more soft to use and certainly more respectful of the internal parts in friction. I also chose not to keep the OEM 0w20 in the engine either, like many of you. On the other hand, could another oil have spared certain breakages (not on those who over-use their ND for sure), we don't know.Īnyway I have an ND2, if I changed the oil it isn't because of the breakages even if obviously we all have it in mind, and I'm really very happy with the Ford Motorcraft. Oil isn't responsible for breakages, nor the level. I have yet to see any photos of a lube related failure. I no longer hesitate to take other directions. If you want to trust Mazda with the choice of your oil, go for it lol, but in aftermarket there have been sure values for decades like Motul (and Castrol), it's stupid to deprive yourself of them.īut I know it's difficult to choose something other than the recommendations of the manufacturers, my ND is my first Mazda, I didn't really know Mazda, now I know the ND and I no longer count the things for which Mazda has made choices which don't correspond to me, and also shitty choices. Mazda screwed up on the gearbox, undersizing, and according to Walter Moltorsport poor machining tolerances. OEM oil is very fluid, it does Mazda's business in terms of fuel consumption but under heavy solicitation it isn't suitable, nowadays if fuel consumption and costs are the number 1 motivations, and choose a less expensive fluid does not tend to have a premium oil. OEM oil will not break the gearbox in 10,000 miles but on the other hand the wear of gearwheels and synchros isn't the same story. If a specialist who has opened hundreds of gearboxes says that an oil is bad or good you can believe it. If happy with shift feel with OEM oil, seems reasonable to me to keep using it. Or that a different oil is going to "save" their transmission from certain doom? Or that there is a significant wear difference between OEM, Redline and Motorcraft oil?ĭo people think OEMs want their transmissions to fail so purposely don't put enough oil in or use cheap oil (certainly not cheap to buy it from the Dealer)? Or "underfill" the transmission? (Fastredrat's explanation on factory fill vs. Will change my differential oil 5000 miles.ĭo people really believe an OEM would use "bad" oil? Alot of metal shavings stuck to the transmission drain plug. Stocked up on oil and transmission drain plug gaskets. Some minor rubbing against the bottom of front bumper. On my 2023 Club ST it barely reached the front crossmember. Took 2-3 minutes for the excess oil to drain out of the fill hole.Īlso purchased this floor jack. Took about 4-6 pumps to pump out 1 QT.Īccidentally pumped in 2.5qts. Bought this one first thinking it would work.Įmergency trip to Harbor Freight. This pump will NOT fit into the Redline bottle. ![]() Thereafter, it did feel like shifts were beginning to get just a little smoother.Ĭhanged my engine and transmission oil today. After draining carefully from the pump and tubing, got 1.8 quarts, so I estimate 1.9 was in the transmission, about 10% low.ĭidn't notice any difference for several hundred miles. Primed my pump and tubing with the old trans oil and put in exactly 2.1 quarts in the trans, exactly as the manual states. Not for use in the transmission, use MT-90 there." ![]() ![]() For NDs that do see some hard use, we recommend Redline 75W-90 as it is slightly thicker, which should give better protection. Perfect for all stock ND Miata differentials that don't see a lot of abuse. Quote from FM, "Redline 75W85 synthetic gear oil. Put Unicorn Tears in the trans and Redline 75W-85 (recommended by Flyin' Miata) in the diff because I don't Autocross or track my car. Could touch the diff oil with my pinkie but could not even reach down enough to touch the trans oil. Changed both several months ago on my 2021 with less than 6,000 miles at the time.
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